CA, USA /– Hanbok is the traditional Korean dress. Often characterized by bold colors and simple lines with no pockets. Although the term literally means “Korean clothing,” the word hanbok today refers specifically to the Hanbok of the Joseon period and is used as semi-formal or formal clothing during festivals and celebrations. If you are looking for Premium Korean Hanbok Store you can visit here.
The origin of hanbok in the nomadic clothing of the Siberian culture of North Asia the earliest evidence for this style can be found in northern Mongolia, where the earliest can be found of the basic characteristics of the hanbok. While in Korea the primary forms of hanbok are found in the ancient murals of Goguryeo before the Siglo century BC.
Three Kingdoms of Korea
From the time of the Three Kingdoms of Korea, the basic structure of the hanbok (with the jeogori jacket, the baji pants, and the chima skirt) was definitely established or stabilized. Long pants and short jackets were worn by both men and women during the early years of the Three Kingdoms of Korea. This composition was maintained.
In the latter days of that period, high-status women began to wear long, belted skirts and jackets, while men’s dresses changed as wide pants and narrow tunic-style jackets belted by a belt began to wear.
The people of Goguryeo wore jeogori whose length was so long that it reached the buttocks and wore trousers both for men and women, this garment was characterized by its wide width in the case of ladies.
In the case of the kingdom of Baekje, it is famous for the beauty of its art and thus also the dresses show off for the beauty of their forms. The system of uniforms among the nobles is characterized by the coding of colors and types of cloth, something that was decided in detail during the reign of the monarch called Goi (the year 260). The vassals had rules regarding the decoration of hats officers according to the hierarchy they occupied.
The Silla kingdom developed late compared to the Goguryeo and Baekje kingdoms, and for this reason, the systematization of the dresses was drawn up after quickly accepting the cultural influences of the Chinese Tang dynasty during the Queen’s rule. Korean Jindeok. However, changes in costume occurred only among members of the nobility, and not among the plebs.
As Silla unified the three kingdoms of Korea, its nobles examined in parallel to include the people of Baekje and Goguryeo and also to strengthen their relationship with the Tang dynasty of China.
Silla had a social stratification called golpum that was established only through birth, thus resulting in various colors and shapes of dresses. In 664, ladies were allowed to wear Chinese-style garments.
Balhae, the northern kingdom of Silla inherited the clothing and styles typical of the Goguryeo royal family and nobility. As it greatly extended its dominance and flourished culturally, Balhae sought to trade with the Chinese Tang dynasty, and by its influence, the Chinese style spread to the Balhae aristocracies.
During the Goryeo dynasty (918–1392)
The Goryeo dynasty initially maintained strong royal authority thanks to the help of Buddhism and marriage among the lineages of the nobility.
Accordingly, the third king, Gwangjong tried a Korean examination system for the first time to institute disciplines and also increase the fidelity of the nobles. To achieve this, Gwangjong instilled young vassals, establishing a system of four classes distinguished by the use of different colors on the sleeves of her dresses.
Although most of the foreign influence on the hanbok dress was short-lived and superficial, nevertheless Mongolian clothing was an exception as it was the only foreign influence that caused significant visible changes in the hanbok.
After Goryeo (918-1392) signed peace with the Mongol empire established in China in the 13th century, thus the princesses of the Mongolian-Chinese dynasty called Yuan by marrying the Goryeo king carried the “Mongolian” fashion to the Korean court with me thus influencing official and private life and therefore also in clothing.
Mongolian influence can be seen in the garments through the following details: the chima was shortened and the jeogori rose above the waist. In addition, the jeore goreum or cord appeared on the chest replacing the old belt. Reciprocally, hanbok was introduced by Korean aristocrats and Korean queens and concubines into the Mongol empire.
During the Joseon dynasty (1392–1910)
The hanbok that is currently dressed maintains the design of the hanbok that was worn in the Joseon dynasty period, specifically in the late nineteenth century.
Like Confucianism which was the official ideology of Korea during the Joseon dynasty, the dresses reflected the hierarchy in Korean society.
From the century XX
Japan in 1876 forced the opening of Korean ports which caused the influx of new cultural features; the Japanese occupation influenced the length of the hanbok, which changed again by having a long jeogori and a short chima or baji, thus having a mixture of traditional Korean clothing with European clothing.
If during the Joseon period women were forbidden to show themselves, modern women began to wear relatively short skirts and a white jeogori without a headdress. Such different styles symbolized the ladies of that time who used a greater diversity of fabrics and accessories such as the parasol.
Until the 1960s, Koreans wearing hanboks were often seen on the streets, but the use of such traditional Korean clothing gradually declined due to the spread of Western clothing.
Nowadays, wearing hanboks in Korea itself is an infrequent and luxurious habit, for this reason.
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